The twin coastal towns of 1770 and Agnes Water sit within 6 km of each other on the Discovery Coast. They are the gateway to the Southern Great Barrier Reef and Lady Musgrave Island. Natural bushland, national parks and the Coral Sea surround this hidden gem.
Development controls ensure no skyscrapers or apartments dominate the beach or bush. We came here hoping to see loggerhead turtles at Deepwater National Park.
Seeing Loggerhead Turtles in Agnes Water
Deepwater National Park is 15 km south of Agnes Water. The park is Australia’s second-largest nesting site, after Mon Repos in Bundaberg. In January, we are lucky to see both adults and hatchlings.
We walk the beach at high tide and full moon – the best opportunity to see mothers leave the ocean to lay their eggs. Sometimes at 3 am, but it’s well worth it to witness and appreciate one of nature’s most amazing wonders.
However, anytime between sunset and sunrise is a good chance of seeing them.
Witnessing Nesting Mother Turtles
With only the sound of wind blowing in from the dark ocean and the moon’s gentle light casting its glow, we walk in anticipation on the soft sand, hoping the moon will soon guide a turtle onto the beach to lay her eggs.
Dragging themselves out of the water and finding a suitable nesting site is strenuous. They use all their energy. We watch turtles, absolutely exhausted, try to climb over almost vertical dunes to lay their eggs.
In amazement, we watch them dig decoy nests. One turtle has only one flipper, yet she still digs. We also help a turtle that gets stuck in the rocks close to the shore.
The turtle volunteer group marks nests with the date the mother turtle lays her eggs. We note those nearing the 45-55 day incubation period and hope to see the babies. Predators dig up nests, leaving cracked eggshells strewn on the sand and footprints of hopeful raiders circle the baby turtles’ nests.
We begin to think that we will never see the baby turtles.
Watching Tiny Hatchlings Head to Sea
On our last day before the orange sun rises over the ocean, baby turtles emerge from their nest after days of digging! At first, we think crabs scuttle across the beach. The babies scurry to the safety of the ocean. It’s fascinating to see their determined purpose as they leave little tracks in the sand.
Even without a mother’s guidance, they know they must reach the ocean as soon as possible to begin their journey and survive. But some aren’t fast enough.
Seagulls take the opportunity to swoop down and grab the vulnerable babies. We pick up as many as we can and bring them to the water’s edge.
Only 1 in 10,000 of these baby turtles will reach adulthood and return 30 years later to lay their eggs. After spending the weekend here, we can see it’s a miracle that any of them survive. Seeing the turtles in their natural environment is a once-in-a-lifetime chance.
Though the possibility of seeing the babies is low, the likelihood of seeing the female turtles come ashore to lay their eggs is higher. Visiting Deepwater National Park and seeing the turtles is the highlight of our trip to Agnes Water. This is also an excellent base for exploring the area.
The Best Beaches in Agnes Water
- Main Beach at Agnes Water – A safe and patrolled beach in spring and summer. The beach stretches 5.5 km to Round Hill Head, so there’s plenty of room. It’s also a great walk to do at low tide.
- Beach at 1770 – Sheltered and safe for swimming. We enjoy cocktails here as we wait for the sunset.
- Springs Beach – The best surf beach and the perfect spot for beach lovers and board riders. The beach is 3 km south of Agnes Water, accessible via Springs Road. Turn at the Springs Beach sign and the 800-metre dirt track leads to the car park. A 200-metre walking track takes you to the deep blue of the Coral Sea behind the dunes.
- Chinaman’s Beach – On Springs Road between Workman’s Beach and Springs Beach. On arrival, a sheltered cove with morning and afternoon shade lies left of the track. Turn off on Springs Road near the distillation plant. The currents are strong here, so be careful if swimming.
- Honeymoon Beach – A secluded cove at Round Hill. The track leads down from the big anchor monument at the Round Hill Head parking lot. A rustic hut here, reminiscent of Robinson Crusoe’s island, is where some couples spend a romantic night.
Scenic Walking Trails
- 1770 Headlands Lookout – Stunning views on Captain Cook Drive and a gorgeous place for sunrise. Secluded private beaches also line the walks.
- Butterfly Walk – Thousands of blue butterflies gather to breed and hibernate. The 15-minute walk begins at the Captain Cook Monument, located in 1770. The best time to see the magical display is from March to June.
- Paperbark Trail – This easy 15-minute walk on stepping stones and boardwalks through towering paperbark trees, vines, ferns and butterflies is straight out of a fairy tale, opposite the entry to Springs Beach.
- Red Rock Walk – A 6 km return walk starting from Springs Beach, taking 3-4 hours to return. Deserted sandy beaches, with your footprints the only ones; blue oceans, bays, rock pools, rocky headlands and views of the Pacific Ocean make this a pretty walk. Take plenty of water and perhaps even a picnic lunch. Turtles nest along the dunes here during turtle season.
- Agnes Water to 1770 – A 6 km walking and bicycle track that follows Captain Cook Drive and connects Agnes Water and 1770.
- Agnes Water Beach – Look for shells and driftwood on the 6 km sandy beach walk during the outgoing tide.
Magical Sunrises & Sunsets in Agnes Water
- Bustard Bay – One of the few places in Queensland where the sun sets over the water.
- 1770 Beach – The marina boats make for a stunning sunset view and a great place to enjoy cold drinks at the Tree Hotel across the road. The best view is down past the 1770 Campground, further down the beach.
- 1770 Headlands Lookout – Stunning views on Captain Cook Drive and a great place for sunrise.
- Agnes Water Beach – Wake up early and watch the sunrise over the ocean.
- Middle Rocks –Deepwater National Park – Spectacular sunrise with silhouettes of the rocks.
- Eurimbula Creek –Eurimbula Creek campground – Sit on the beach and watch technicolour sunrises and sunsets from here.
- Red Rock Walk – If you start early, the sunrise here is well worth the early wake-up.
Visiting the Agnes Water Kangaroo Sanctuary
Horizons Kangaroo Sanctuary is a basic camp that serves as a sanctuary, caring for and rehabilitating orphaned baby kangaroos. Here, you get close to the kangaroos and help support their rescue. The free-roaming kangaroos slowly return to the wild when ready. You can also camp here amongst the kangaroos.
National Parks & Coastal Wilderness
- Deepwater National Park – Famous for coastal emus, the park’s fauna includes paperbark forests, banksias, wattles, Moreton Bay ash and pink bloodwood. Flat Rocks, Middle Rocks and Wreck Rock have stunning, isolated beaches nestled in lush bushland. Turtles nest on the dunes between November and March. Hatchlings emerge from mid-January to late March. Tawny frogmouths, ringtail possums, echidnas and kangaroos are among the local wildlife we encounter here. A 4-wheel-drive is necessary, but a 2-wheel-drive is sufficient if you’re coming from the south and only going to Wreck Rock.
- Eurimbula National Park – Many bird and mammal species call the mango-fringed estuaries, paperbark swamps and eucalyptus here home. Enjoy stunning views, secluded beaches and beautiful sunsets, with views of 1770 at night while camping. You can see kangaroos, sea turtles and white-bellied sea eagles. Some of these beaches are also essential nesting sites for endangered turtles. You need a 4WD to drive on the park’s roads.
- Joseph Banks Conservation Park – The rocky headland juts into the sea and is considered Captain Cook’s first landing place. Stunning views of Eurimbula National Park, the 1771 Headlands and Round Hill lookouts greet you from here.
Coastal Camping
From bush-to-beach camping, there’s something for every camper. Get back to nature in the bush, camp on the absolute beachfront, camp with kangaroos, or even take your dog on a camping adventure.
Love camping and unforgettable wildlife encounters? 📖Read about our incredible experience camping on Fraser Island, where we shared our campsite with a family of wild dingoes.
👉Dingoes of Fraser Island (K’gari): Sharing Their World
- Horizons Kangaroo Sanctuary – What’s better than waking up in your tent, watching the sunrise, surrounded by baby kangaroos? After visitors leave for the day, campers have the kangaroos to themselves and can help feed the tiny ones from their milk bottles. The sanctuary sits atop a hill, with stunning views of Agnes Water. The amenities are new and well-maintained.
- 1770 Campground – Absolute beachfront camping right on 1770 beach with just a few steps out on the white sand to the sheltered blue sea. Try to book A27, as it is right at the end and almost in the water! Book camping in advance. The campground gets crowded during the holiday season.
- Workmans Beach Campsite – Amongst shady trees in a bushland reserve about 1 km from Agnes Water. It’s a short stroll to the beach and within walking distance of town. Facilities include water, toilets, picnic tables, cold-water beach showers and free gas BBQs. The camp is dog-friendly, provided they are kept on a lead. The camp sits off Springs Road, with a 200-metre dirt road leading to it. It’s a council-run campsite and no bookings are required; you turn up.
- Middle Rocks Camp – Real bush camping, set in a natural bush environment with picnic tables and fires allowed in designated rings. A back-to-nature experience you’ll likely enjoy. Because the camp is set up behind the dunes, it can get stiflingly hot in summer, but if you can handle the heat, it’s the perfect place to see turtles on the beach. It’s a lovely place to camp in the winter, especially since fires are allowed.
- Wreck Rock Camp – This campsite has toilets, cold-water outdoor showers and picnic tables. The camp can fill up quickly during the holidays, so we recommend booking in advance.
- Eurimbula Creek – A shady campsite in the forest behind Bustard Beach’s clear waters. Facilities comprise toilets, water, fire rings and picnic tables. There is a large rainwater tank here, but it’s best to bring your own water just in case.
- Middle Creek – This picturesque, secluded campsite on the banks of Middle Creek offers rustic amenities, including composting toilets and fire rings. When the tide comes up, the water is only a few metres from the campsites.
Our Favourite Cafes
Agnes Water and 1770 have quiet nightlife. With plenty of self-contained accommodation, it’s great for eating in. We ate at a couple of places during the day and stayed in at night, especially as our beach shack is cute and cosy.
- 1770 Marina Café – A little place in 1770 with lots of healthy, freshly made food, vegetarian options and friendly staff. The coffee is the best in 1770. The creamy mango and berry smoothies are bursting with tropical fruit flavour! We have a delicious breakfast here and eat it at the sandbar overlooking the marina.
- Holidays Café – Great food, a casual setting and a great location with views of Agnes Water Beach. There’s not much choice on the menu, but what they do have is nice. We shared a vegetarian burger and a caramel thickshake.
Where to Stay: Our Beach Shack
We stayed at 1770 Beach Shacks, located right across the beach in 1770, with gorgeous views. The shacks feature an open tropical style, complete with polished timber floors, timber French doors and push-out windows. All this, with the beautiful finishing touch of fresh hibiscus flowers scattered throughout the room. We loved sitting on the balcony, having a BBQ and watching the sunset. Both Agnes Water and 1770 offer a variety of accommodations to suit every taste, from budget to five-star. Our friends enjoyed their stay at Mango Tree Hotel in Agnes Water. The hotel is ideally located, moderately priced and just a 100-metre walk from the beach, with easy access to other amenities. The air conditioners keep the rooms cool on hot, humid days.
More Fun Things to Do in Agnes Water
- Lazy Lizard Surf School – Agnes Water offers surf breaks for beginners and experienced surfers, making it a great place to learn to surf. They take the class to Springs Beach, a remote beach. Classes are small, with male and female coaches.
- 1770 SUP Hire – Owned by Chris de Aboitiz, a tandem world champion surfer and a well-known paddleboarding personality with his adorable dogs. Enjoy stand-up paddleboarding on the stunning coastline of Agnes Water and 1770. The waters at 1770 are perfect and safe for learning to paddleboard. Learn to paddleboard. Tours include a sunset tour and paddleboard hire is available.
- 1770 Liquid Adventure – A choice of guided kayak tours, such as sunset explorer and family tours around the headland and nature reserve that often see dolphins, turtles and other wildlife. Hire a canoe to explore on your own and perhaps take a picnic to one of the sandbars.
- LARC Tour – A bright pink LARK (a repurposed amphibious military vehicle) for a full day of exploring the Discover Coast, including lunch and sunset.
- Bicycle Hire – With everything in a small area, cycling around Agnes Water and 1770 is an ideal way to see the sights.
- Discover 1770 – Can help arrange trips to the islands of the Southern Barrier Reef – Lady Musgrave, Lady Elliot, Heron and Great Keppel Island.
If you’re travelling along the coast, Agnes Water and 1770 are great places to stop for a few days, especially if you love beaches, surfing and camping. The subtropical climate and laid-back atmosphere add to the holiday vibe, without the crowds.
Watching those tiny tracks disappear into the waves was the perfect ending to our time in Agnes Water. With a little luck, some of these remarkable hatchlings will survive their incredible journey and return many years from now to nest on the very beach where their lives began.
🏝️Keep Exploring Queensland’s Wild Coastlines
Keep following the coast south: pitch your tent on Lady Musgrave Island to snorkel alongside sea turtles and clownfish, or sail out into Hervey Bay for eye-to-eye Humpback whale encounters.
🐾Where to Next?
🐋Whale Watching in Hervey Bay: Close Encounters with Humpback Whales
🐢Camping on Lady Musgrave Island: Nature’s Paradise
This is a great article with fantastic images! We camped at Deepwater last year, at wreck rocks and got to see 3 mother turtles! One we saw was quite early about 5 pm. It really was a great experience and the scenery at the park is stunning. And yes it gets real hot in summer! thanks for this, I really enjoyed it. Marg
Hi Marg. Thanks for reading and leaving a comment. We really love Deepwater, it really is the where the “bush meets the beach”. Seeing the turtles was the best experience for us and one you don’t get very often without the crowds.
Read another great blog post from Ray & Sue as usual. I love beaches and I’ve visited many beaches around the world. After reading this blog, I’ve decided to visit these coastal towns because these are untouched by the urbanization. No skyscrapers, no urban bustling. That’s great! A few touristy beaches in the world have this kind of natural environment. The description about the Deepwater National Park and the turtles on the beach has encouraged me a lot. I also loved the camping accommodation settings on the beach. Thanks Ray & Sue for publishing such a nice post with extraordinary photos.
Thank you so much David! If you love beaches and beach activities, Agnes Water and 1770 are a great destination with a laid back atmosphere. We are not big beach and sun lovers but still really enjoyed our time here, especially with the turtles.
Another beautiful article. What interests us mainly about this place is camping with the kangaroos. From someone from Europe this is a dream for us. The beaches look great too with some great camping tips. Thank you. Hennie
Thanks Hennie. Camping with the kangaroos is a unique experience and no doubt it will be a highlight of your trip. Make sure you book in advance during the holiday season if you can.
We briefly traveled around Agnes Water and 1770 late last year, I wish we had found your site earlier, there is so much more to do than we realised, as keen walkers we found a couple of treks but it looks like we missed the more interesting ones that you managed to find. We are definately going for a re-visit and spending some more time in the area, I think next time we will divide our time between both Agnes water and 1770, we should then be able to capture most of what you have seen, we will definitely be using your finds as a guide rather than relying on other sources.
Agnes is a great place for keen walkers and some of the landscape on the coastline is spectacular. We really love the red rock walk with the stunning scenery, secluded bays and we had it all to ourselves. Thanks for your comments Bryan and Sheila.