The twin coastal towns of 1770 and Agnes Water sit within 6 km of each other on the Discovery Coast  and are the gateway to the Southern Great Barrier Reef and Lady Musgrave Island.  Agnes Water is a touristy beach town and 1770, named after the year that Captain Cook first landed and discovered the area is the more untouched of the two. Surrounded by natural bushland, national parks and the Coral Sea here is an unknown gem for nature, sun and beach lovers. Controls on development mean there are no skyscrapers or apartments taking over the beach or bush. We visit here in the hope of seeing the Loggerhead turtles at Deepwater National Park.

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A Loggerhead turtle heads back to the ocean after laying her eggs.

The Loggerhead Turtles

With only the sound of the wind blowing in from the dark ocean and the only light from the moon casting a gentle light, we walk in anticipation on the soft sand and hope the moon will soon guide a turtle onto the beach to lay her eggs.

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Baby turtles make their first journey

Deepwater National Park is 15 km south of Agnes Water. The park is the second largest nesting site in Australia, with Mon Repos in Bundaberg the largest. Visiting in January we are lucky to see adults and hatchlings. We walk the beach at high tide and full moon – the best opportunity to see mothers leave the ocean to lay their eggs. Sometimes at 3 am, but it’s well worth it to witness and appreciate one of the most amazing wonders of nature. Though anytime between sunrise and sunset is a good chance of seeing them. Dragging themselves out of the water and finding a suitable nesting site is excruciating for them and they use all their energy. We watch female turtles absolutely exhausted try and climb up over almost vertical sand dunes to lay their eggs. In amazement we watch them dig decoy nests. One turtle has only one flipper but she still goes through the motion of digging and we help a turtle that gets stuck in rocks close to the shore.

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We hope he makes it back in 30 years time!

The turtle volunteer group stands pegs into the sand near the nests with the dates on them when the mother turtle lays her eggs. We take note of the ones nearing the incubation period of 45-55 days and hope to see the little babies.

Cracked eggshells from the nests are strewn on the sand after being dug up by predators and footprints of hopeful raiders circle the baby’s nests. We become more disillusioned and lose hope that we will see the baby turtles.

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Only 1 in 10000 of these babies will make it to adulthood.

On our last day before the orange sun rises over the ocean, baby turtles emerge from their nest after digging for days! At first, we think crabs scuttle across the beach. The babies scurry to the safety of the ocean and it’s fascinating to see their determined purpose as they leave little tracks in the sand. Even without a mother’s guidance, they know they have to reach the ocean as soon as possible to start their journey.

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The last ones make it to safety.

Only 1 in 10000 of these baby turtles will make it to adulthood and return in 30 years’ time to lay their eggs. After spending the weekend here we can see it’s a miracle that any of them survive at all. Having the opportunity to see the turtles in their natural environment and without the crowds is a once in a lifetime chance. Though the possibility of seeing the babies is low there is a very good chance of seeing the female turtles come ashore to lay her eggs.

Visiting Deepwater National Park and seeing the turtles are the highlight of our trip to Agnes Water. While here we have fun exploring other parts of the area.

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Cocktails on the beach at 1770

The Beaches

Main Beach at Agnes Water – A safe and patrolled beach in spring and summer. The beach stretches 5.5 km to Round Hill Head so there is plenty of room and it’s also a great walk to do at low tide.

Beach at 1770 – Sheltered and safe for swimming. We enjoy cocktails here while waiting for the sunset.

Springs Beach – The perfect spot for beach lovers and board riders and the best surf beach about 3 km south of Agnes Water on the Springs Road. Turn at the Springs Beach sign and the 800-metre dirt track leads to the car park and a 200-metre walking track takes you to the deep blue of the Coral Sea behind the sand dunes.

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Lot of beaches to explore

Chinaman’s Beach – On Springs Road between Workman’s Beach and Springs Beach. Left of the track when you arrive on the beach is a sheltered cove that has shade in the morning and afternoon. Turn off on Springs Road near the distillation plant on Spring Road.  The currents are very strong here so be very careful if swimming.

Honeymoon Beach – A secluded cove at Round Hill. The track leads down from the big anchor monument at Round Hill Head parking lot. There is a very rough hut here reminiscent of Robinson Crusoe’s castaway where some couples spend a romantic night.

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The paperbark walk

The Walks

With enchanting paperbark forests, sapphire blue butterflies, rugged granite outcrops, never ending views of the Coral Sea and secluded bays, this is utopia for walkers and hikers.

1770 Headlands Lookout – Stunning views on Captain Cook Drive and a gorgeous place for sunrise. There is also access to private secluded beaches on these walks.

Butterfly walk – Thousands of Blue Butterflies come together to breed and hibernate. The 15-minute walk starts from Captain Cook Monument in 1770. The best time to see the magical display is March to June.

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Blue butterflies on the walk

Paperbark Trail – This easy 15-minute walk on stepping stones and boardwalks through towering paperbark trees, vines, ferns and butterflies is straight out of a fairy-tale. Opposite the entry to Springs Beach.

Red Rock Walk – This 6 km return walk starts from Springs Beach and takes 3-4 hours return. This is one of the prettiest coastal walks we have done. Deserted sandy beaches, with ours being the only footprints, blue oceans, bays and rock pools surrounded by rocky headlands and views of the Pacific Ocean. Take plenty of water and perhaps even a picnic lunch. Turtles nest along the sand dunes here during turtle season.

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Scenery on the Red Rock walk

Agnes Water to 1770 – A 6 km walking and bicycle track that follows Captain Cook Drive and connects Agnes Water and 1770.

Agnes Water Beach – Look for shells and driftwood on the 6 km sandy beach walk during the outgoing tide.

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Sunset on 1770 Beach

Sunrise and Sunsets

Bustard Bay – One of the few places in Queensland the sun sets over the water.

1770 Beach – The boats in the marina make for a stunning view at sunset and a great place to enjoy cold drinks from the Tree Hotel across the road. The best view is down past the 1770 Camp ground further down the beach.

1770 Headlands Lookout – Stunning views on Captain Cook Drive and a gorgeous place for sunrise.

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Sunrise at 1770 Headland

Agnes Water Beach – Wake up early and watch the sunrise over the ocean.

Middle Rocks Deepwater National Park  Spectacular sunrises with silhouettes of the rocks.

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Sunrise at Middle Rocks

Eurimbula Creek Eurimbula Creek campground  Sit on the beach and watch technicolour sunrise and sunsets from here.

Red Rock walk – If starting the walk early the sunrise along here are well worth the early wake-up!

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Adorable kangaroos at the Horizons Sanctuary

Kangaroo Sanctuary in Agnes Water

Horizons Kangaroo Sanctuary is a beautiful sanctuary that cares and rehabilitates orphan baby kangaroos. Passionate about the kangaroos and wildlife, the owners Garry and Denise offer a unique experience. Here you get close to the kangaroos and help support their rescue. The kangaroos are free and most get introduced back into the wild. Admission is $10 per person and this gives you 2 hours to spend with kangaroos. Visiting hours – 3 pm to 5 pm. Not only this, you can camp here amongst the kangaroos!

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Sue gets close to a kangaroo

The National Parks

The National Parks in the area have some of the best forest, bush, beach and estuaries. Emus, red- tailed cockatoos, honeyeaters, kites and waterbirds are to name some of the wildlife that inhabitant the area.

Deepwater National Park – Famous for coastal emus the park’s fauna is made up of paperbark forests, banksias, wattles, Moreton Bay ash and pink bloodwood. Flat Rocks, Middle Rocks and Wreck Rock have stunning isolated beaches with a bush setting. Nesting turtles lay their eggs on the sand dunes between November to March and hatchlings emerge mid-January to late March. Orange-eyed tawny frogmouth owls, a family of cute ringtail possums, a melomy, echidna, and kangaroos are some of the local wildlife we meet here. A 4-wheel drive is necessary, but a 2-wheel drive is sufficient if coming from the south and going to Wreck Rock only.

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A Ringtail possum at Deepwater National Park

Eurimbula National Park – Many bird and mammal species call the mango fringed estuaries, paperbark swamps and eucalyptus here home. Stunning views, secluded beaches, beautiful sunsets and you can see the lights of 1770 at night while camping. We see kangaroos, turtles in the sea and white-bellied sea eagles. Some of these beaches are also important nesting sites for endangered turtles. A 4-wheel drive is necessary for the roads in the park.

Joseph Banks Conservation Park – The rocky headland juts into the sea and is considered the first landing place of Captain Cook. Stunning views of Eurimbula National Park, the 1771 Headlands and Round Hill lookouts greet you from here.

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Sunrise at 1770 lookout at Joseph Banks National Park

Camping

From bush to beach camping there is something for all campers. Get back to nature in a bush setting, camp on absolute beachfront, camp with kangaroos or even take your dog on a camping adventure.

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Camp with kangaroos!

Horizons Kangaroo Sanctuary – What could be better waking up in your tent watching the sunrise and being surrounded by baby kangaroos? Once the day visitors leave you have the kangaroos to yourself and can even help feed the tiny ones their milk bottle. The sanctuary sits on a hill with great views of Agnes Water and the amenities are brand new and very clean. This special experience is $25 per night for two people for an unpowered site and $30 for a powered site.

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Camp with the kangaroos at Horizons Kangaroo Sanctuary

1770 Campground – Absolute beach front camping right on 1770 beach with just a few steps out on the white sand to the sheltered blue sea. Try and book A27 as it is right at the end and almost in the water! Camping needs to be booked in advanced and this gets very crowded during the holiday season.

Workmans Beach Campsite – Amongst shady trees in bushland reserve about 1 km from Agnes Water. It’s only a short stroll to the beach and walking distance to town.  Facilities include water, toilets, picnic tables, cold water beach showers and free gas BBQs. The camp is dog-friendly if kept on a lead. The camp is located off Springs Road and 200 metres of dirt road to reach the camp. It’s a Council run campsite and about $9 day per person. No bookings required just turn up.

Deepwater National Park

Middle Rocks Camp – Real bush camping, set in natural bush with picnic tables and fires allowed in rings. A back to nature experience and you will more than likely have this all to yourself. Because the camp is set up behind the sand dunes it can get stifling hot in summer, but if you can put up with the heat, it’s the perfect place to see turtles on the beach. It’s a really beautiful place to camp in winter, especially as fires are allowed.

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Baby turtles at Deepwater National Park

Wreck Rock Camp – This campsite has toilets, cold-water outdoor showers and picnic tables. The camp can fill up quickly during the holidays so needs booking in advance.

Eurimbula National Park

Eurimbula Creek – A shady campsite in the forest behind the clear waters of Bustard Beach. Facilities comprise of toilets, water, fire rings and picnic tables. There is a large rainwater tank here, but it’s best to bring your own water just in case.

Middle Creek – This picturesque and secluded camping on the banks of Middle creek is rustic camping with only composting toilets and fire rings. When the tide comes up the water is only a few metres from the campsites.

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Breakfast at 1770 Marina Cafe

Our Favourite Cafes

The nightlife is quiet in Agnes Water and 1770, and with a lot of self-contained accommodation, it suits to eat in. We try a couple of places during the day and stay in at night especially as our beach shack is very cute and cosy!

1770 Marina Café  – A little place in 1770 with lots of healthy, freshly made food, vegetarian options and friendly staff. The coffee is the best in 1770 and the mango and berry smoothies are to die for!  We have a delicious breakfast here and eat it at their sand bar overlooking the marina.

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A vegetarian burger at Holidays Cafe

Holidays Café – Great food, a casual setting and a great location with views of Agnes Water Beach. There is not a lot of choice on the menu, but what they do have is very nice. We share a vegetarian burger and have two caramel thickshakes and it’s delicious.

Accommodation

We stay at 1770 Beach Shacks right across the beach at 1770 with gorgeous views! The shacks are open tropical style with polished timber floors, timber french doors and push out windows with the beautiful finishing touch of fresh hibiscus flowers placed around the room. We love sitting on the balcony having a BBQ and watching the sunset.

Both Agnes Water and 1770 have a variety of accommodation to suit every taste from budget to five stars.

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Our cosy beach shack

Activities

Lazy Lizard Surf School – The warm waters of Agnes offer a number of surf breaks to suit beginners and experienced so is a great place to learn to surf. They take the class to Springs Beach a beautiful remote beach and the classes are small with male and female coaches.

1770 SUP Hire – Owned by Chris de Aboitiz who is a tandem world champion surfer and a well-known character for paddle boarding with his adorable dogs. Enjoy stand up paddle boarding in the stunning coastline of Agnes Water and 1770. The 1770 waters are perfect and safe for learning paddle boarding. Learn to paddle board and tours including a sunset tour and paddle board hire available here.

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Chris from 1770 SUP Hire and his dogs

1770 Liquid Adventure  – A choice of guided kayak tours such as sunset explorer and family tours around the headland and nature reserve that often see dolphins, turtles and other wildlife. Hire a canoe to explore on your own and perhaps take a picnic to one of the sandbars.

LARC Tour – A bright pink LARK (a repurposed amphibious military vehicle) for a full day of exploring the Discover Coast including lunch and sunset.

Bicycle Hire – With everything in a small area exploring Agnes Water and 1770 by bicycle is an ideal way to see all the sights and keep fit.

Discover 1770 – Can help arrange trips to the islands of the Southern Barrier Reef – Lady Musgrave, Lady Elliot, Heron and Great Keppel Island.

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A great spot to chill out for a few days

If travelling along the coast, Agnes Water and 1770 is a great spot to stop for a few days, especially if you love beaches, surf and camping. The sub-tropical climate and the laid back atmosphere add to the holiday vibe but without the crowds.

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Deepwater is one of the best places to see Loggerhead turtles

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8 Responses to “Agnes Water – Beaches, Turtles, Kangaroos and Sunrises”

  1. Margaret jaun

    This is a great article with fantastic images! We camped at Deepwater last year, at wreck rocks and got to see 3 mother turtles! One we saw was quite early about 5 pm. It really was a great experience and the scenery at the park is stunning. And yes it gets real hot in summer! thanks for this, I really enjoyed it. Marg

    Reply
  2. Ray & Sue

    Hi Marg. Thanks for reading and leaving a comment. We really love Deepwater, it really is the where the “bush meets the beach”. Seeing the turtles was the best experience for us and one you don’t get very often without the crowds.

    Reply
  3. Read another great blog post from Ray & Sue as usual. I love beaches and I’ve visited many beaches around the world. After reading this blog, I’ve decided to visit these coastal towns because these are untouched by the urbanization. No skyscrapers, no urban bustling. That’s great! A few touristy beaches in the world have this kind of natural environment. The description about the Deepwater National Park and the turtles on the beach has encouraged me a lot. I also loved the camping accommodation settings on the beach. Thanks Ray & Sue for publishing such a nice post with extraordinary photos.

    Reply
    • Ray & Sue

      Thank you so much David! If you love beaches and beach activities, Agnes Water and 1770 are a great destination with a laid back atmosphere. We are not big beach and sun lovers but still really enjoyed our time here, especially with the turtles.

      Reply
  4. Another beautiful article. What interests us mainly about this place is camping with the kangaroos. From someone from Europe this is a dream for us. The beaches look great too with some great camping tips. Thank you. Hennie

    Reply
    • Thanks Hennie. Camping with the kangaroos is a unique experience and no doubt it will be a highlight of your trip. Make sure you book in advance during the holiday season if you can.

      Reply
  5. Bryan & Sheila

    We briefly traveled around Agnes Water and 1770 late last year, I wish we had found your site earlier, there is so much more to do than we realised, as keen walkers we found a couple of treks but it looks like we missed the more interesting ones that you managed to find. We are definately going for a re-visit and spending some more time in the area, I think next time we will divide our time between both Agnes water and 1770, we should then be able to capture most of what you have seen, we will definitely be using your finds as a guide rather than relying on other sources.

    Reply
    • Agnes is a great place for keen walkers and some of the landscape on the coastline is spectacular. We really love the red rock walk with the stunning scenery, secluded bays and we had it all to ourselves. Thanks for your comments Bryan and Sheila.

      Reply

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