Lake Nakuru National Park: Falling in Love with Rothschild Giraffes

After four days of bush camping in the Masai Mara, we arrive at Naishi Guest House in Lake Nakuru National Park. Livingstone, the caretaker, waits to welcome us. He stokes the fire to heat our shower and the fireplace glows.

Set on the floor of the Great Rift Valley, Lake Nakuru is one of Kenya’s most compact national parks, yet it holds a special magic that instantly captured our hearts. While historically famous for the millions of flamingos that once lined its shores, shifting water levels mean the flocks now move between different Rift Valley lakes. But Nakuru offers so much more than flamingos—it is an intimate sanctuary where every drive reveals something extraordinary.

Living Alongside the Savanna at Naishi Guest House

We fell in love with Naishi Guest House at first sight. Once the home of the park warden, this charming, rustic sanctuary features a timber kitchen, traditional makuti thatched roof, and slate-tile floors. High windows let ice-cold savanna air sweep through at night, accompanied by the deep, throaty roars of lions echoing across the plain.

From the guest house veranda, we experience our first thrilling encounter. Just 50 metres away in the tall grass sits a magnificent old lion. With his cub-chewed ears, scarred body and weary eyes, he carries the story of a lifetime of battles—likely living a quiet, solitary existence after younger males ousted him from his pride. He remains completely unfazed, watching us calmly from the edge of the clearing.

Yellow-barked acacia trees buzz with life around the house. From our bedroom, we watch playful vervet and colobus monkeys leap through the canopy, kept out by the security bars framing the windows. Each morning begins at dawn, stepping into the chilly breeze as the sunrise paints the sky, before returning to breakfast prepared by our incredible cook, Sammy—featuring freshly brewed Kenyan coffee and market-fresh fruit pancakes

The Rothschild Giraffes: A Newborn’s First Hours

We could easily spend days here just watching the Rothschild giraffes. Endangered and rare, with only a small global population remaining, they were brought to Lake Nakuru to be protected within its sanctuary boundaries. Unlike their Masai and Reticulated cousins, Rothschild giraffes have no distinct markings on their lower legs—giving them the adorable appearance of wearing clean white socks!

During one morning drive, we come across a herd with two-month-old calves and a newborn baby who is barely hours old.

We are completely spellbound.

With her umbilical cord still attached and her little body out of proportion, the newborn blinks her dark chocolate eyes at us, entirely aware of our presence. Her mother bends her long, elegant neck down to lick her baby’s soft, orange-spotted coat tenderly.

Gangly and brimming with energy, the older giraffe calves dash about in playful bursts before gathering around their newest companion.

Though only slightly larger, their budding ossicones—those cute, horn-like bumps—are just beginning to show. Wide, inquisitive eyes gleam with the unspoken question of whether the tiny newborn might join in the fun.

The adults of the herd approach with quiet grace, as if offering their silent congratulations to the new mother. Still, she stands guard, vigilant and ready to defend her calf with a swift, powerful kick if needed.

This peaceful nursery scene, full of gentle interactions, becomes an unforgettable highlight of our Kenya adventure.

Masters of the Canopy: Leopards & Tree-Climbing Lions

Lake Nakuru is renowned as one of Kenya’s best parks for leopard sightings and it certainly delivers. Driving through the dense acacia woodland, we spot a master of disguise—a handsome leopard sits across the thick branches of a yellow-barked acacia tree.

He’s unconcerned by the excitement he’s sparked below, while a herd of impalas wanders right beneath his perch, blissfully unaware of his presence.

In Lake Nakuru, it’s not only the leopards that climb trees!

Further along the track, we come across another graceful herd of impalas grazing peacefully, led by a striking male whose eyes are like melted syrup and whose horns rise in regal splendour. But the tranquil scene is deceiving.

High above them, two lionesses perch silently on a thick acacia branch, their gaze fixed intently on the impalas below! Every muscle in their bodies is taut with purpose, their faces sharpened by the adrenaline of the hunt. We hold our breath, watching the silent standoff between unsuspecting beauty and coiled power.

Squeaking Rhinos & Savanna Encounters

From the wooded canopy down to the sweeping grasslands, Nakuru’s open tracks reveal endless encounters. Cheeky baboon troops lounge in the dust, curious jackal pups poke their heads out of roadside dens and beautiful Waterbucks stay alert.

Lake Nakuru is also home to one of Africa’s largest sanctuary populations of both black and white rhinoceroses. While the solitary black rhinos stay hidden within the thick brush, white rhinos graze peacefully alongside the roads in impressive numbers.

One morning, we pull up near a group of five white rhinos just metres from our Land Cruiser. As we sit in quiet awe, we hear the most unexpected sound—gentle, high-pitched squeaks echoing between the massive animals!

Hearing these prehistoric, armoured giants communicate with sounds like a squeaky toy is a hilarious and endearing moment we will never forget.

The Lake Bogoria Detour & The Pokot Tribe

Martin’s Flamingo Pivot

While Lake Nakuru delivered intimate giraffe encounters and incredible wildlife sightings, the famous millions of flamingos were nowhere to be seen along the shoreline during our visit. Rising water levels in recent years have altered the lake’s salinity, causing the microscopic algae flamingos feed on to shift to other Rift Valley lakes.

Not wanting us to miss out, Martin placed a quick phone call and tracked the flock to Lake Bogoria, a few hours north. Without hesitation, we packed up camp and headed off on an unexpected detour—one that would lead us to thousands of flamingos and an encounter with the Pokot tribe.

Sea of Pink at Lake Bogoria

Arriving at Lake Bogoria’s alkaline shoreline, seeing these leggy, pink birds gathered together in a vibrant display of shades—from soft candy pink to deep burnt orange—is breathtaking.

When startled, the flock takes to the air in a pink congregation, moving in unison toward the centre of the lake. Once the threat passes and calm returns, they march back in sync toward the shore to feed along the steam-vented edges.

Cultural Encounters with the Pokot People

Deciding to camp overnight at Lake Bogoria opened up another incredible opportunity: visiting the traditional Pokot people near the Lake Baringo region.

Rarely visited by mainstream tourists, the Pokot have maintained their traditional way of life in this harsh, arid landscape. Stepping into their village was humbling. Wearing brilliant, hand-beaded neck collars, intricate brass jewellery, and vibrant fabrics, the Pokot women welcomed us warmly.

Learning about their daily routines, resilience, and rich cultural traditions provided a deep human connection that balanced out our wild safari adventures.

Practical Guide & Planning Tips

Planning Your Visit: Lake Nakuru & Bogoria

• Best Time to Visit: Lake Nakuru offers exceptional wildlife viewing year-round. For flamingos at Lake Bogoria, bird movements depend on water levels—check with local guides upon arrival in Kenya to confirm where the largest flocks are currently feeding.
• Where to Stay:
  • Naishi Guest House (Lake Nakuru): A self-catering KWS (Kenya Wildlife Service) guest house featuring a fully equipped timber kitchen, wood fireplace and space for up to 6–8 guests. Hiring a private cook (like our amazing cook, Sammy) makes self-catering seamless and enjoyable.
  • Lake Bogoria Camping: Basic public and special campsites are available near the park gate and along the lake, offering an authentic bush camping experience under the stars.
  • Sarova Lion Hill Game Lodge: Known for its breathtaking scenery, close wildlife encounters and reputation for delicious cuisine.
• Getting Around: A 4WD safari vehicle is essential for navigating Nakuru’s forested tracks and the dirt roads leading up to Lake Bogoria.
• Guide Recommendation: An experienced local guide (like Martin Maina) is invaluable for tracking leopard sightings in Nakuru and adjusting routes when wildlife relocates.

🌿 Continue Exploring Africa

Planning a Kenya Safari? From bush camping in the Masai Mara to watching baby elephants play in red dirt, rare Rothschild giraffes, tree-climbing lions and flocks of flamingos—explore our blogs to plan your dream trip.

🐾 Where to Next?

⛺ Camping Under the Stars in the Masai Mara: Lions, Hippos & Campfire Nights
🦩The Ultimate 14-Day Kenya Safari Itinerary: From Ithumba to the Masai Mara