Ollantaytambo to Machu Picchu by Train

The quaint village of Ollantaytambo is easily one of our favourite places in Peru. Nestled deep in the Sacred Valley, two imposing Inca ruins overlook a town where the Incas famously retreated when the Spanish conquered Cusco.

Much of the town remains remarkably unchanged from the time of the Incas over 500 years ago. As you wander through the narrow cobblestone streets and into the small town square, you’ll see traditionally dressed locals gathering near vibrant souvenir shops and local eateries, creating an incredible atmosphere that feels genuinely frozen in time.

Lunch & Boarding the Vistadome Train

While waiting for our train, we stopped for lunch at Café Mayu, a gem of a cafe located right next to the railway platform. It’s part of the iconic El Albergue hotel next door, which is renowned for serving some of the most delectable food in the Sacred Valley—with most of the organic vegetables harvested fresh daily from their very own garden!

We tucked into homemade fresh vegetarian fettuccine, a crisp garden salad and generous mugs of local craft beer. It gave us a mouthwatering teaser of what was to come, making us even more excited to return since we booked a stay at El Albergue on our return trip from Machu Picchu.

Traveller Tip: Café Mayu is the ultimate spot to grab a bite before your train departure. You can relax with incredible food and local craft beer right on the platform without worrying about rushing to catch your train!

The Scenic Train Journey to Aguas Calientes

We climbed aboard our train to Machu Picchu, delighted to discover we had snagged the very front seat!

Sipping a steaming cup of coffee and nibbling on a flaky croissant, we watched the 90 minutes melt away as the Andean scenery unfolded around us. River valleys and patchwork farmlands gradually gave way to dramatic mountain gorges, misty cloud forests and sudden glimpses of ancient Inca ruins tucked high into the hills.

Train Logistics Note: The train ride from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu Town) takes around 1.5 to 2 hours. Booking seats with panoramic windows—like the Vistadome—is well worth it for the front-row views of the changing landscape as you descend into the high jungle.

Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu Town)

Built directly into the mountain valley below the ruins, Aguas Calientes boasts a undeniably dramatic setting surrounded by towering cliffs and rushing rivers.

However, it’s worth setting realistic expectations before you arrive. Because it serves as the sole gateway for thousands of daily visitors, the town is purely tourist-driven, relatively expensive and lacks the authentic charm, vibrant local markets and historic architecture of Cusco or Ollantaytambo. Service can sometimes feel rushed and prices are higher than elsewhere in the Sacred Valley.

That said, staying overnight here is a necessary move—and one we highly recommend—if your goal is to beat the massive day-tripping crowds and be at the Machu Picchu gates for sunrise!

Where We Stayed: We stayed at the Waman Hotel, which was clean, comfortable and ideally located just a short walk from both the train station and the early morning bus stop.

The Early Morning Strategy: Beating the Crowds to Machu Picchu

To be among the very first visitors through the gates at Machu Picchu, an early start is essential. The ruins open at 6:00 am, and while the first shuttle bus doesn’t depart until 5:30 am, the line begins forming much earlier.

We arrived at the bus stop in the chilly morning darkness at 4:00 am. As I guarded our spot near the front of the growing line, Ray slipped away to a bustling nearby café, returning with steaming coffees and spicy bean burritos for us to share while we waited.

Our early wake-up paid off—we managed to board the third bus of the morning, whisking us up the winding mountain road before the massive wave of day-trippers arrived!

Machu Picchu Morning Tip: Buses run continuously up to the ruins all morning, but a backlog builds quickly. Arriving at the Aguas Calientes bus stop by 4:00 am guarantees you a spot on one of the very first buses, allowing you to capture the iconic panoramic photos in perfect morning light with almost no tourists in your frame.

Exploring the Ancient Citadel of Machu Picchu

Though it’s one of the most visited historical sites in the world, Machu Picchu still holds an undeniable, mysterious presence. Shrouded in drifting mountain clouds, the magnificent ancient city blends seamlessly into the dramatic peaks and high tropical forest around it. Standing there in the morning light, it’s easy to understand how the conquering Spaniards never managed to discover it.

When we first stepped into the citadel, we couldn’t believe our luck—we practically had the sweeping view to ourselves, save for a mother llama and her baby standing right in the iconic pose at the top of the terraces!

The Guardhouse (The Classic Panoramic View)

Our very first stop was the Guardhouse, reached via a short 5-minute uphill walk from the main entry. Navigating the one-way circuit routes is straightforward using the map provided upon entry. Standing at the Guardhouse early in the morning gave us pure, uninterrupted panoramic views of the entire stone city before the crowds arrived.

The Sun Gate (Inti Punku)

Next, we took the 45-minute uphill trek to the Sun Gate (Inti Punku), which originally served as the main guarded entrance to Machu Picchu. This is where trekkers finishing the classic Inca Trail get their very first glimpse of the citadel. While the sweeping view of the surrounding valleys is impressive, Machu Picchu itself appears quite distant from here, so it’s best enjoyed for the historical perspective and mountain scenery.

The Temple of the Sun & Precision Inca Architecture

Returning down to the main ruins, we explored the Temple of the Sun. Recognisable by its smooth, curved stonework, it highlights the remarkable precision of Inca engineering—crafted without any mortar or cement, yet fitting together so seamlessly that the stones have stood firm for centuries.

The temple functioned as an advanced solar observatory; during the summer and winter solstices, light shines directly through the carved window to illuminate a central sacred stone, allowing the Incas to track agricultural seasons.

The Residential & Working Quarters

Beyond the sacred structures lies the Urban Sector, where the everyday life of the citadel unfolded. Walking through these working quarters gives you a tangible connection to the past—you can clearly see the layout of ancient homes, workshops and communal areas built around narrow alleys and open plazas.

Unlike the polished, seamless stonework reserved for royal and religious temples, the masonry in these residential quarters features more rugged stone and mortar. It’s a fascinating contrast that highlights the distinct social hierarchy and functional design of the Inca Empire.

Machu Picchu Visitor Logistics & Tips

• Beating the Crowds: The massive wave of day-trippers arrives from Cusco around 10:00 am, which can quickly crowd the narrow stone pathways. Visiting right at the 6:00 am opening ensures a peaceful, sacred atmosphere.
• Returning to Town: Buses run continuously up and down the mountain all day. Whenever you’re ready to head down, simply walk to the bus exit—no reserved return time is needed for the shuttle back to Aguas Calientes.
• Where to Eat in Aguas Calientes: While the town is packed with touristy eateries offering near-identical menus, there are some that serve up delicious local dishes, vegetarian and friendly service such as Mapacho Craft Beer, Misky Organic Fusion and Greenhouse Organic.

Returning to Ollantaytambo: Heritage, Hikes & Vegetable Garden to-Table Dining

On our train journey back from Machu Picchu to Ollantaytambo, we were lucky enough to snag the very front seat once again! Watching the dramatic river valleys and mist-shrouded peaks roll by from the front window was the perfect way to wrap up an unforgettable trip to the ancient citadel.

Before heading onward to our next adventure in the Amazon jungle, we spent a few days unwinding in Ollantaytambo.

Where to Stay: El Albergue Ollantaytambo

Located directly beside the railway platform, El Albergue oozes historic character and charm.

Our room was a absolute highlight—featuring rustic colonial architecture, exposed timber beams, polished wooden floors and a massive bed topped with a soft, warm, and a cosy doona for the chilly Andean nights. Outside, lush gardens frame sweeping views of the snow-capped Andes mountains.

Location Advantage: Being right on the train platform means zero stress with luggage on travel days, yet the serene garden setting feels worlds away from the hustle of the station.

Exploring Historic Ollantaytambo & Fortress Ruins

From the train station, it’s a gentle 400-metre uphill walk to the vibrant main town square. Just a few minutes’ walk from the square lie the magnificent Ollantaytambo Fortress Ruins, home to some of the most spectacular stone terracing in the Sacred Valley.

This historic site holds major significance: it is where the Incas famously won a major battle against the invading Spanish forces by flooding the plains below and forcing a retreat. It is easily one of the most impressive and historically rich sites in the region.

Lesser-Known Hikes: The Pumamarca Ruins

Ollantaytambo also serves as an exceptional base for quiet, off-the-beaten-track day hikes.

• The Hike: A scenic 6-km walk following an ancient Inca trail leads out from town to the impressive ruins of Pumamarca.
• The Site: These well-preserved stone structures once served as a vital strategic checkpoint along the Inca road system.
• The Vibe: Unlike the main tourist hubs, you’ll often have the trail and these quiet ruins almost entirely to yourself.

Vegetable Garden to-Table Dining at El Albergue

Dining at El Albergue’s restaurant was easily one of our culinary highlights in Peru. Much of their organic produce and fresh fruit is harvested daily from their very own farm on the property, offering incredible vegetarian-friendly options.

On our final evening, we celebrated with:

• A bottle of regional wine alongside fresh, handmade pasta
• Crisp organic quinoa garden salad featuring apples and blue cheese
• Decadent homemade apple pie served with ice cream, paired with fresh strawberry cheesecake for dessert

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