Meeting the Orangutans of Camp Leakey: A Journey into Borneo’s Jungle

As our boat glides closer to Camp Leakey, two bright orange shapes appear on the wooden jetty ahead. Their vivid orange fur blazes against the lush green backdrop. We can hardly believe our eyes as we grab our cameras. Fardi, our guide, introduces our official reception committee: Peta and her baby Petra, who love waiting by the riverbank to welcome visitors to their jungle home.

Deep in the Jungle: The Story of Camp Leakey

Camp Leakey sits along a winding branch of the Sekonyer River in Tanjung Puting National Park, Borneo. Established in 1971 by the passionate Dr Biruté Galdikas, it began as just a few simple jungle huts accessible only by dugout canoe.

As the world’s foremost authority on orangutans, Dr Biruté first documented these wild primates’ ecology and behaviour, bringing their plight to global attention. Today, it stands as a historic sanctuary and home to the last orangutans rehabilitated here.

To support the free-roaming orangutans, camp staff supplement their diet with fresh bananas at forest feeding platforms. This extra food discourages competition between former captive orangutans and the fully wild population. Watching them swing down from the towering tree canopies to reach the platforms offers a unique chance to observe them up close in their natural habitat.

Journeying Upriver: Meeting Our Klotok Crew

Our adventure officially begins at Pangkalan Bun airport, where our guide, Fardi, welcomes us warmly. From there, we travel to the port of Kumai to board our traditional wooden riverboat, known as a klotok, for the four-hour journey upriver to Camp Leakey.

Onboard, we meet the rest of our local crew: our captain Sabri, our cook Imbran and deckhand Udin. They hand us a refreshing welcome drink and set the tone for the next few days—a mix of first-class service and genuine Indonesian hospitality.

Life Aboard the Klotok: Candlelight Dinners & Sleeping Under the Stars

We instantly fell in love with our klotok’s simple charm. Downstairs was the crew’s quarters and the busy kitchen, while the top deck was our private front-row seat to the rainforest. By day, we lounged on deck, watching hornbills slice through the canopy overhead, spotting orangutans building leaf nests on the riverbank and watching Macaques and Proboscis monkeys swing through the treetops at dusk.

We even had a few unexpected lunch guests—visiting orangutans and a playful gibbon named Boy —who dropped by just to see what was on the menu!

As darkness settled over the jungle, the boat transformed. We dined on the open deck by candlelight, watching the soft yellow flames flicker against the dark river water while the gentle sounds of the rainforest echoed all around us. Later, we drifted off to sleep on soft mattresses under a vast, star-brimming night sky, cooled by a gentle river breeze and the rhythmic lap of water against the hull.

Culinary Magic in the Jungle

Below deck in his tiny galley, Imbran worked pure culinary magic with nothing more than a small gas burner and a handful of pots and pans. Three times a day, he served up scrumptious, authentic Indonesian feasts, keeping us endlessly satisfied with plenty of delicious snacks in between.

Meet the Characters: The Heartwarming Primates of Camp Leakey

Spending our days in the forest, we got to know each orangutan by name, personality and quirk. Their sharp intelligence, deep emotion, and distinctly human-like sense of humour never stopped amazing us.

Unyuk & Ulexa: The Friendly “Security Guard”

On our first day, as we trudged back from a humid jungle trek, Unyuk appeared with her baby Ulexa—a tiny, perfect mirror image clinging tightly to her side. She paused right in the middle of the narrow, muddy trail and fixed her gaze on me, blocking my path. She patted my pockets, checking for a treat. My initial uncertainty turned to excitement when I felt her soft touch.

Wisps of unruly ginger fur burst out in every direction. Her deep brown eyes, rich as treacle and framed with coppery lashes, had a clever glint. In that gaze, I glimpsed both the cheekiness of a trickster and the warmth of a gentle spirit. “We nickname her Trouble,” Fardi chuckled. A former captive who suffered mistreatment, Unyuk has called Camp Leakey home for the past 37 years.

Peta & Petra: The Biscuit Thieves

One afternoon, sunlight filtered through the leafy canopy as we lounged on the deck with tea and biscuits. Suddenly, the klotok rocked beneath us as a flash of auburn fur darted onto the deck. An orangutan, Peta, her face lit with mischief, snatched a packet of chocolate chip biscuits, scattering crumbs as she fled.

Back on the jetty, we watched her and her baby, Petra, devour the packet hungrily, their lips and fingers smeared with crumbs and their faces dusted with chocolate. Later that day, our excitement soared when Peta constructed a leafy nest in a tree just across from our boat. For the next couple of nights, she and her baby kept a cheeky vigil, peering down at us through the branches.

Doyok: The “Chewbacca” of the Forest Platform

A 27-year-old ex-captive, Doyok reigns supreme on the platform near Camp Leakey. His massive cheek pads, wild ginger beard and imposing frame lend him an almost mythic presence—reminiscent of Chewbacca, the Wookiee from Star Wars. Some orangutans, granted his grudging permission, ventured onto the platform; others lingered nervously in the canopy.

They wait for Doyak to look away, then swoop down, snatching fistfuls of ripe golden bananas and flee in a flurry of russet fur. Woe to those who move too slowly: Doyak’s heavy hand delivers swift, unmistakable discipline.

Siswe: The Dramatic Queen of the Jungle

While rain drummed on the canopy, Siswe picked ferns, leaves and branches, arranging them with flair into a makeshift umbrella above her head. Her expression flickered with impish delight as we stood dripping nearby. Always the star, she positioned herself in front of us, pausing dramatically for the cameras. From crafting a regal crown to eating a banana, every gesture she makes brims with irresistible stage presence.

Siswe is the only female orangutan at camp without a baby. Years ago, a vicious infection nearly claimed her life and stole her chance at motherhood. Born in 1978, she arrived as a miracle: the first baby born to a rehabilitated orangutan at Camp Leakey. Her mother, Siswoyo, had endured unimaginable suffering, confined for years in a tiny, suffocating cage, her spirit nearly broken, barely able to walk when she finally arrived at Camp Leakey in 1975.

Akhmad & Atlas: A Moment of Hand-in-Hand Connection

One morning, the camp was ours alone. Akhmad and her inquisitive seven-year-old son, Atlas, wandered alongside us, their quiet presence humbling. A former captive, Akhmad has called Camp Leakey home since 1975.

Her gaze held a soulful wisdom, a quiet knowing that seemed to linger in the air. Her belly, full and round in her eighth month of pregnancy, spoke of new life soon to come. I wished we might witness a new life during our stay.

For hours they curled up beside us on the wooden jetty. We sat reading, simply enjoying each other’s company. Suddenly, Akhmad turned to me and shyly extended her hand. My heart leapt as I reached out to take it. She gripped my hand softly yet assuredly. Expecting her palm to feel as rough as old bark, I was surprised by its delicate, velvety warmth.

We sat together in quiet trust—a moment of shared tenderness I will never forget.

Tut & Tor: Sweet Motherly Love (and Water Bottle Hijacks!)

Tut and her baby girl, Tor, hung around the edge of camp each morning. Every day, as we stepped off our klotok, they were the very first to greet us. One mischievous morning, Tut snatched our water bottle, tipped it back and gulped greedily, cool water spilling down her ginger chin and soaking her chest.

The pair were a portrait of wild devotion. Tut doted on little Tor with boundless affection—constantly tumbling in playful games, wrapping her in warm embraces and meticulously grooming her, sometimes with a comical, almost ruthless thoroughness.

Gina & Gam: The Quiet Tricksters

Usually found swinging through the canopy together, orangutans Gina and Gam are two of the quietest residents at Camp Leakey. But their quiet nature doesn’t make them any less curious—or cheeky.

As we walked past, they would reach out to grab us, only to instantly look away and feign complete innocence the second we turned around. Their eyes sparkled with a familiar, quiet mischief that we grew to love.

Until Next Time, Camp Leakey

Morning comes far too soon, stealing us away from this place and its orangutans—those brilliant red furballs brimming with personality. We promise ourselves we will return. As our klotok glides away from Camp Leakey, I glance back to find Peta and Petra on the jetty, quietly watching us leave.

Sunlight sets their fur aglow in a brilliant splash of marmalade orange. I keep watching until they fade into distant, dark silhouettes.

Camp Leakey offers these former captive orangutans a second chance—to reproduce, raise their young and thrive in the wild. Here, mothers cradle their babies safely in their arms, exactly where they belong.

While most rehabilitated orangutans embrace independence deep in the jungle and are never seen again, a select few stick around, casually socialising with camp staff and visitors.

Essential Practical Tips for Visiting Camp Leakey

How to Get There: Fly into Pangkalan Bun (PKN) via Jakarta or Bali (Denpasar) with a connection in Surabaya.

• What a Klotok Tour Includes: Multi-day packages typically cover return airport transfers, all riverboat travel, cosy on-board accommodation, private crew/chef and guided rainforest treks.
• Fitness & Mobility: Jungle walks are gentle, relatively flat and usually last about 20–30 minutes—making them accessible for most travel styles!
• Packing & Preparation:
  • Bug Protection: Wear lightweight long pants and long sleeves from dusk to dawn. Pack high-strength repellent (mosquito nets are provided on board).
  • Dietary Needs: Local cooks can easily accommodate vegetarian or other dietary preferences if you mention them during booking.
  • Stock Up Early: Pick up any extra snacks or specialty soft drinks in town before boarding—there are no shops once you hit the river!

When is the Best Time to Visit Tanjung Puting?

Season	Months	Weather	What to Expect
Dry Season (Peak)	May – October	☀️ 🌤️	Clear sunshine and lowest rainfall. The busiest time on the river, especially June through August.
Wet Season (Shoulder)	November – April	🌧️ ⛈️	Warmer rain and fewer crowds. Wild fruit blooms, so orangutans often roam deeper into the jungle.
Sweet Spot	Nov & Dec	🌦️ 🌿	The early wet season brings rain mainly at night, leaving the jungle lush and green and far fewer tourists during the day.

Choosing a Local Guide: Our Experience with Fardi

Our guide is from Orangutan HouseBoat Tours, a local company Fardi owns. He worked as an orangutan guide for 10 years before starting his own company. He is great to deal with from the very first contact to the end. Questions are answered quickly and nothing is too much trouble. If you want to see orangutans in their natural home, we recommend booking with Fardi. He is special, with passion, knowledge and respect for the orangutans. He and the crew go out of their way to make it a trip you will never forget.

🌳Protecting Borneo’s Gentle Primates

An estimated 60,000 orangutans remain in the wild, facing severe threats from deforestation, agricultural expansion and habitat loss. Because females give birth only every five to eight years, the population is even harder to recover. Visiting Camp Leakey directly supports local eco-tourism and conservation efforts, giving these magnificent, intelligent primates a safe sanctuary where they can thrive.

🌿Continue Exploring Indonesia

Discover Tangkoko’s nocturnal spectral tarsiers and endangered crested black macaques, or dive into our photography blog on Bali’s rich and traditional culture.

Where to Next? 🐾

🐒Tangkoko National Park: The Best Place in the World to Spot Tarsiers & Black Macaques
🌺The Colours of Bali: A Visual Story of Culture, Festivals & Local Life