As the first light of day pierces the early morning mist, an eerie quiet hangs over the dense sal forest of Dhikala. Suddenly, a sharp alarm call shatters the silence—monkeys shriek from the high canopy and deer freeze, their ears twitched toward the shadows. Deep in Jim Corbett National Park, every rustle in the undergrowth signals that a predator is on the prowl.
Known as the Land of Roar, Trumpet and Song, Dhikala offers one of the most raw and intimate tiger safari experiences in all of India. Join us as we venture deep into the heart of this wild sanctuary, following the reign of famed tigresses, cubs and herds of wild elephants along the Ramganga River.
Dhikala: Where the Wild Begins
Our guide and driver pick us up from our hotel in Ramnagar and our adventure begins aboard a gypsy, an open-top safari jeep. The Dhikala Forest Rest House is 30 kilometres into the Corbett Tiger Reserve.
It takes us about two hours to drive along a road lined with ancient fig trees and towering sal trees whose thick leaves create a green tunnel. Along the way, we catch glimpses of deer, jackals, monkeys and crocodiles sunning themselves on the scenic banks of the Ramganga River.
Checking into the Heart of the Jungle: The Forest Rest House
The Forest Rest House is at the foot of a valley on the outer ranges of the Himalayas. Spectacular hills and the flowing Ramganga River surround it. Due to its popularity, guests are advised to book this rustic retreat several months in advance; the maximum stay is three days.
The accommodations don’t have modern amenities, but who needs TV and Wi-Fi when you have the raw beauty of the wild and wilderness right at your doorstep?
Genuine local hospitality greets us at the secure gates, setting a warm tone for the rest of our stay. Staff from Nature Safari India provide us with a box containing aromatic tea, coffee, chocolate chip cookies and fresh fruit for snacks during our safaris. They show us our clean and cosy room.
We can see the river, where elephants often gather. They tell us to lock our doors and windows so thieving monkeys don’t get in and steal our things. Wow! Monkeys are outside our room and elephants walk by. We feel like we’re in full wildlife safari mode already! After settling in and unpacking, we have lunch and meet at the jeep for the first safari.
After our safaris, we look forward to our meals. The food is only surpassed by the home-away-from-home atmosphere the staff creates. Cooks prepare food in the open kitchen next to the dining room. We can hear the pans sizzling and smell the spices.
The Indian buffet is simple yet offers a selection of vegetarian options. Dals and curries that taste scrumptious are rich in spices and vegetables. Freshly made chapatis are still warm from the griddle.
Fresh banana and mango slices in creamy fruit custard are too irresistible to resist as a traditional dessert. With its blend of coconut milk, raisins and toasted almonds, the kheer is also a treat for the taste buds.
Into the Mist: Dawn and Dusk Safaris
Our morning safari begins when the first light of day peeks through the darkness. A ghostly mist hangs above the ground and wraps around the trees as we eagerly reach the meeting point. The cool air hits our cheeks as we pile into the jeep.
Our guide, Rakesh, a naturalist with extensive experience, sits beside our driver, Abdul. It feels exclusive and intimate, just with us, our guide and driver. They lead us through the wild together, picking up on the jungle’s subtleties.
Rakesh is always alert, scanning the distance for wildlife and seeing them long before we do. You can feel his excitement when he sees a camouflaged tiger or a rare bird.
A tiger and later an elephant cross the road so close to our jeep that Abdul reverses to move out of their way. Wildlife calls the shots; vehicles must give way to all birds and animals. At sunrise, elephants congregate by the riverbank, silhouetted against the horizon.
The forest awakens with bird calls and rustling leaves, hinting at the presence of elusive wildlife. No wonder it’s called the land of the Roar, Trumpet and Song, referencing the sounds of the tiger’s roar, the elephant’s trumpet and the birdsong in the park.
In the afternoon, predators, especially tigers, are active. They come out of their hidden dens after a day of rest, sleek and strong, ready to hunt. Deer are cautious and alert. Now and then, an alarm call pierces the air and echoes eerily across the plains, causing their ears to twitch at the slightest sound.
There is chaos as monkeys join the alarm, shrieking from the trees. They gaze intently at the same spot as the deer, their eyes razor-sharp and knowing. The shrieks are accompanied by screeching, hissing and rattling of branches.
Shadows in the Grass: Tracking the Tigers of Dhikala
India, home to over 3,600 Bengal tigers, accounts for 75% of the global population. The remarkable recovery of the tiger population, which has doubled in just over a decade, is one of the most inspiring stories in wildlife conservation.
This success is attributed to the government’s Project Tiger, which protects prey, curbs poaching and habitat destruction and actively engages local communities, reducing conflicts between people and wildlife.
Reign of the Queens
More than 250 tigers live in Jim Corbett. Sightings of tigers vary across the park. The park’s landscape and dense vegetation significantly affect tiger visibility. Dhikala, deep in the tiger habitat, is the best place to stay, watch and photograph tigers.
The centre of attention belongs to the Queens of Dhikala: tigresses Parwali and Pedwali, alongside their cubs. Parwali’s three surviving cubs are now 18 months old, while Pedwali is guiding three 22-month-old cubs of her own.
Although tigers are excellent mothers, only half of their cubs survive to age two. While their mother hunts, these first few months are dangerous for cubs as they are at risk from wolves, leopards and male tigers.
Before they give birth, they build secretive dens. The cubs remain hidden and drink only their mother’s milk for about two months. People rarely write about or photograph this stage of the cub’s life because it is so private.
We were fortunate to have several encounters with the two tigresses and their young cubs. They move with an impossible, silent grace, their orange and black coats blending effortlessly into the forest.
Stopping to glance our way, their amber eyes lock onto ours with an intensity that leaves us holding our breath, feeling like uninvited guests in their private world.
Our first encounter is with Pedwali. She appears alone; her cubs are likely hidden nearby. Tiger cubs follow their mother to food when they’re about three months old. Their footsteps mark the journey toward self-reliance.
With the elegance of her title, she saunters past our vehicle. Her eyes, as bright as molten gold, look ahead, casting only a fleeting glance in our direction.
Royalty in the Grasslands
One afternoon, Rakesh sees movement by the side of the road, and Abdul abruptly halts the vehicle with a soft jolt. A male grassland tiger stretches out just a few metres away, hidden under the canopy. It is a powerful but subtle display of his sheer strength.
His giant paw appears to swipe at us teasingly, not in the least bothered by our presence. His piercing eyes look at us with regal indifference. At that moment, he silently conveys our insignificance in his world.
Stealth, Splashes & Failed Stalks
We watch the young cubs, now nearly the same size as their mother Pedwali, try to hunt like her when they see deer on the other side of the river. As the tiger cubs navigate the shallow water, trying to be as stealthy as possible, they set their sights on the deer ahead.
Little do they know that the deer are alert and watching their every move.
Despite their best efforts to sneak up unnoticed, it seems the tiger cubs won’t be able to catch the deer by surprise. These cubs must try a different approach to outsmart their keen-eyed prey next time!
When Giants Take the Right of Way
The funniest thing happens when we wait for one of Pedwali’s cubs to appear on the road. The tiger looks away from us and disappears up the road. A short time later, he runs towards us, his eyes filled with anger and fear.
We look to see what upsets him: two giant elephants, his enemies, lumbering steadily toward him, their trunks swinging with each determined step.
Gentle Giants: Elephants Wild and Free
Approximately 700 elephants reside in Jim Corbett National Park and are part of a migratory group that inhabits Rajaji National Park. Elephants have played significant roles, from serving in wars during the Middle Ages to participating in temple ceremonies and working in the logging industry.
The fragmentation of their populations across South and Southeast Asia, resulting from habitat loss and ivory poaching, is a stark reminder of the toll humans have taken on these gentle giants.
Knowing the troubled history of elephants and their ongoing struggles in India makes seeing them free in the wild all the more special.
Life Along the Ramganga
Tuskers, lone bull elephants, move slowly across the vast savannah. As the light fades, their huge tusks shine. In the distance, social groups of females gather. The matriarch leads them with quiet authority, her weathered, wrinkled skin bearing the marks of wisdom and years lived.
Young calves playfully stumble alongside their mothers, occasionally looking curiously at the world around them. Elephants go to the river, their feet sinking into the soft sand. They wade in and use their trunks to spray water on their skin, making a mist that sparkles in the sun. The older elephants’ soft trumpets encourage the younger elephants to join in. They do so right away, splashing around and playing.
Tuskers & Tempers
Suddenly, an enormous tusker emerges from the forest during a morning safari, his ears flaring wide and his eyes flashing with fury. He is enraged by our presence. He stomps his feet and acts as if he will charge at our jeep. The ground shakes and our jeep rocks.
Rakesh explains that the elephant is in musth, a condition characterised by heightened aggression and increased sexual activity in male elephants, where their testosterone levels are six times higher. He’s upset we have interrupted his time with the females.
The Heartbreak of the Herd
A solitary elephant walks alone in the grasslands, with her tiny calf by her side. The baby elephant hobbles awkwardly, favouring a leg that seems hurt and tender. The mother stops and lifts her trunk in the cool breeze.
She looks directly at us with deep, sorrowful eyes and her big ears flap gently. Her gaze tells a silent story of separation and sacrifice. Her calf’s injury poses a risk to the herd’s safety, forcing them to leave.
Symphony in the Canopy: The Birds of Dhikala
Rakesh gestures towards an Egyptian vulture soaring high in the blue sky. Its feathers are bright white and its wings are black. This beautiful bird is one of the most endangered raptors. Rakesh tells us that these intelligent birds use tools, such as picking stones to crack open eggs and gathering wool for their nests with sticks.
Rulers of the River Airspace
We hear the Pallas’s fish eagle’s plaintive cry before we see it. With its golden and sandy plumage, it sweeps through the sky before diving straight into the river below, its talons poised for the catch. This master fisherman is a rare species, with some estimates suggesting that fewer than 2,500 remain in the wild.
Abdul smoothly brings the jeep to a stop when Rakesh points up and signals him to stop. The jeeps behind us suddenly stop, too, sending dust swirling around us as we crane our necks to see what has caught his attention.
A Collared falconet emerges from a high branch. This pocket-sized falcon is one of the smallest raptors in the world. It can grab dragonflies, cicadas, bees, butterflies and even small birds from the air. It prefers to nest in holes made by industrious woodpeckers or barbets.
Jewels of the Forest Canopy
The Hoopoe is a fascinating bird with unique features. Its cinnamon-coloured feathers, zebra-striped wings and crown crest make it a gem for bird watchers. These birds possess a quirky behaviour of rolling and fluttering joyfully in the sun-kissed dust, spreading their feathers in a comical grooming display.
Rakesh stops talking when he hears what sounds like a tiny jackhammer. It’s the rhythmic drumming of woodpeckers. The Himalayan Flameback, with its dazzling feathers, creates a natural rock concert as it drills into the trees.
The park’s ecosystems create a paradise for birdwatchers. The park offers a blend of excitement and serenity, as you can immerse yourself in the thrill of tiger sightings and the peacefulness of birdwatching.
The park has the highest bird population in India, with over 600 resident and migratory species. Every bird we encounter on safari is another story in itself.
Green Bee-eaters dart from branch to branch, their green feathers catching the sunlight. They visit Jim Corbett National Park from February to October. This vibrant summer guest brings a splash of colour with its green plumage and blue throat.
Riverside Hunters & Unexpected Hitchhikers
Every evening, as we wind down our safari, a spectacle greets us near the guest house. Abdul stops the vehicle so we can take in the breathtaking sight. Blue-tailed Bee-eaters take their place in a tree, ready to roost for the night. A vibrant display of blue, green and yellow feathers dances against the backdrop of the setting sun.
If you love kingfishers, you’re in for a treat as you’re sure to catch sight of them. A Pied kingfisher shows off its stylish black-and-white plumage and trendy crest while diving into the water to catch a little fish for its patiently waiting mate.
We also see the White-throated kingfisher, whose chestnut-brown and ice-blue plumage, with a snow-white chest, is striking. With keen eyes fixed on the water, it stands ready to act. Though the kingfisher may be a common sight in India, its beauty is anything but ordinary.
A bold Common kingfisher attempts to hitch a ride on our vehicle, its diminutive body a blur of electric blue and orange. Despite its striking colours, it blends into its surroundings. These shy birds are not known to steal the spotlight, but their plumage certainly makes them stand out.
As we cross the river, a flash of white catches our attention. Rakesh’s enthusiasm bubbles over as he exclaims how lucky we are to glimpse an Ibisbill, a true birdwatcher’s dream come true! Revered as the ‘wonder bird of the Himalayas,’ this enigmatic bird’s camouflage in the white, boulder-strewn landscape makes it an uncommon sight. The mysterious and rare bird is found only in unique riverine environments.
Ground Strikers & Golden Feathers
The Kalij pheasant is a fascinating bird that scurries away at the faintest sound. It is notable for its sexual dimorphism: the male has stunning iridescent silver-and-blue plumage and a vivid red face, while the female, understated yet pretty, has soft autumn-brown feathers.
As our safari comes to an end, we watch a peacock perched on a log scanning the horizon, perhaps for a potential mate, before he descends gracefully. A magnificent train of blue, green and gold feathers spreads out in a spectacle of colour. The peacock’s loud wailing calls echo through the park. Each plume shimmers like sequins in the soft sunlight.
The peacock, India’s splendid national bird, has rich mythological and cultural importance. According to Hindu beliefs, it is beautiful and symbolises rebirth, abundance and sinful pride.
Dappled Light and Silent Steps: The Deer of Corbett
With their majestic antlers, Sambar deer cautiously cross the river at dawn against a sky painted in soft pinks and oranges. Beyond their beauty, they symbolise the delicate balance among life, survival and death. Safari guides listen for the alarm call of a Sambar deer. It signals the presence of a tiger or another predator.
Shadows at Twilight
Sambar deer are reliable in their warnings because they are resilient to minor frights. Spotted deer will sound an alarm and quickly flee. In contrast, Sambar deer don’t move; they keep their large luminous eyes watchful, continuing their alarm calls until the danger has passed.
While some may argue that remaining still ensures their capture, others say that it spoils the tigers’ element of surprise.
Dotted Beauties of the Roadside
Spotted deer, their antlers rising like ornate crowns, appear ethereal as they emerge from the early morning mist. They have a golden-brown coat with white spots and a short tail. Our jeep rolls to a stop as a pair of Spotted deer appear in the middle of the road.
The mother stands poised and alert. A ginger fawn with white spots blinks at us, its large, round eyes resembling pools of dark treacle. The mother gently nudges her fawn to follow her back into the forest.
Barking Deer: Shadows of the Forest
True to their name, Barking deer emit a sharp, dog-like bark that others can hear up to one kilometre away. This bark serves as an alarm, alerting fellow deer to predators in the shadows. They move cautiously, often in pairs. Even the soft click of our camera causes them to stamp their feet, flutter their ears and fix their huge, wary eyes on us suspiciously.
Hog Deer: Ghosts of the Grassland Trails
We glimpse the elusive Hog deer, a species on the brink of extinction. The burning of their grasslands is primarily responsible for the decline of these small deer, whose cherubic faces resemble the beloved character Bambi. Unlike other deer that can retreat into the woodlands, the Hog deer is a grassland dweller and lacks the skills to survive in wooded areas.
Flames that sweep through their home leave them vulnerable and nowhere to turn. Tragically, their numbers have plummeted and now only about 20 to 40 Hog deer remain in Corbett.
Beyond the Big Cats: Dhikala’s Rich Ecosystem
Dhikala is the premier destination in the world to see tigers, but the wildlife here is far richer and more varied. The park is home to leopards, jackals, bears, langurs, monkeys, king cobras, porcupines, wild boars, crocodiles, gharials and other species. The critically endangered gharial is a fish-eating crocodilian with only a few hundred individuals remaining in the wild.
The Golden jackal, often overshadowed by more famous predators like tigers and leopards, quietly thrives in India’s forests thanks to its intelligence, adaptability and social nature. This carnivore thrives where others struggle, moving in pairs or small family groups and communicating with haunting howls and yelps.
They hunt and scavenge together and in matters of the heart, they personify loyalty by forming monogamous pairs and committing for life. Both parents and sometimes older pups raise their young.
Despite being a favourite meal for tigers, Wild boars display resilience and cunning, making them hard to catch. These misunderstood animals serve as nature’s gardeners, aerating the forest floor and contributing to forest renewal through their root-digging adventures.
These intelligent animals thrive in family units living in tightly knit matriarchal societies. Despite challenges posed by human conflict and habitat loss, their increasing populations in some regions are a testament to their resilience.
Tiger Safari Success: Practical Tips for Visiting Dhikala
Planning a trip to Dhikala requires careful preparation to secure permits, choose the right safari and make the most of your time in the forest.
Getting There & Location
Jim Corbett National Park is located near Ramnagar, Uttarakhand, approximately 260 km (a 6-hour drive) from New Delhi. You can reach the park by road or train from major cities such as New Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata and Pune, or by regular bus services from Delhi, Jaipur, Agra and Dehradun.
Permits & Booking Requirements
Safari permits are strictly limited, especially during peak tourist seasons.
- Booking Window: The official booking window opens 45 days in advance on the Corbett Tiger Reserve website, so mark your calendar to secure a spot early.
- Entry Gate: The main entry point for Dhikala is Dhangari Gate. You must present the same photo identification used at the time of booking (your passport for international travellers).
- Using an Operator: Partnering with a specialised travel company, such as Nature Safari India, can ensure a seamless experience. They arrange transportation, accommodation, jeep hire, drivers, guides and all necessary permits.
Overnight Stays vs Day Visits
- Dhikala Night Stay: Staying overnight inside the park at the Dhikala Forest Rest House (FRH) is the best choice. It gives you access to private 4×4 jeep safaris—one in the morning and one in the afternoon—with just you and your group. This is the only way to explore Dhikala by jeep.
- Day Visitors: Day visitors cannot access Dhikala by private jeep. The only way to see the zone on a day trip is by taking a shared 20-seater Canter (safari bus).
Park Rules & Timings
- Season: The Dhikala Zone is open annually from 15 November to 15 June (closed during the monsoon season).
- Safari Hours: Morning safaris generally run from 06:30 to 09:30 AM and afternoon safaris run from 02:30 to 05:30 PM.
- Regulations: Alcohol and non-vegetarian food are strictly prohibited inside the reserve. Visitors must collect all personal and non-biodegradable waste (plastic, tin cans, glass bottles and metal foil) in a bag to dispose of outside the park.
Weather & Seasonal Wildlife Highlights
Winter (November to February): Daytime temperatures remain mild, but nights and early mornings dip to 5°C. Early-morning safaris feature sunlight filtering through a misty, golden forest canopy. Winter brings migratory species from colder climates, including the Bar-headed goose, Siberian crane and Steppe eagle, alongside courtship displays from resident birds as winter turns to spring.
Summer (March to June): Temperatures rise to 40°C in May and June. The scorching heat forces big cats, elephant herds and wildlife toward the remaining waterholes, making May ideal for tiger sightings. Water also draws resident birds such as Pied and White-throated kingfishers, Asian paradise flycatchers and Indian pittas.
Essential Packing & Photography Gear
- Clothing: Pack warm layers for chilly morning open-jeep drives in winter. Bring a wide-brimmed hat, as open vehicles offer no shade during hot mid-morning and afternoon sun. Bring a windproof jacket and rain gear for sudden changes in weather, and wear comfortable, earth-toned clothing that blends into the forest.
- Camera Dust Protection: Open-air driving coats everything in fine sandy grit. A sturdy dust cover or bag is essential to keep your camera body and lenses functional.
- Camera Stabilisation: Use a beanbag filled with buckwheat hulls to rest your lens on the jeep frame; the organic shape absorbs vehicle vibrations during drives.
- Guide Communication: Chat with your guide before setting off to discuss any specific birds or wildlife you want to spot so they can tailor the route accordingly.
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