We look forward to returning to Lumholtz Lodge. During our last visit, we met Geoffrey, the well-known tree kangaroo featured in photography and wildlife publications worldwide.
Tree kangaroos are notoriously tricky to spot in the wild, so many photographers and wildlife enthusiasts travel to Lumholtz Lodge for a chance to see them up close.

About Lumholtz Tree Kangaroos
Lumholtz tree kangaroos live in the rainforest in Far North Queensland. These unique animals generally have soft black-brown fur, often tinged with orange, small ears and a distinctive broad head with a black face and a pale band across the forehead. Babies’ and younger juveniles’ faces are patchier and more black.

Adults weigh up to 10 kg and have muscular arms for climbing, plus a long, black tail to maintain balance high in the trees. They eat leaves, vines and rainforest fruits. They usually move along the treetops but come to the ground when moving between trees or eating low-hanging fruit.
Tree kangaroos are nocturnal and solitary. Males show aggression when others enter their territory, which is about 5 acres for males and 1.5 acres for females. Females are sexually mature at about two years old. They carry their young in their pouch for about nine months.
After leaving the pouch, they can take another nine months to be weaned. After this, they stay with Mum for another year or more.

The Lumholtz tree kangaroo is rare. Their future is threatened by deforestation. Extensive rainforest clearing greatly reduces their habitat and puts them at risk from domestic and wild dogs. When they move on the ground between rainforest patches, vehicles can hit them. Climate change also poses a long-term threat.

About Lumholtz Lodge
Lumholtz Lodge is an intimate bed-and-breakfast located in the tropical rainforest outside Atherton, Queensland. It’s exclusive, with only one group of guests booked in at a time. This lodge offers a personal, exclusive experience. Visitors can immerse themselves in the rainforest’s natural beauty and diverse wildlife.
Margit, the host, is a dedicated wildlife carer who specialises in the endemic Lumholtz tree kangaroo. Her extensive knowledge of the rainforest and its unique wildlife makes for a special stay.

The Tree Kangaroos
Dobby
Dobby is the cutest six-month-old baby tree kangaroo. While spotlighting in the national park, scientists found him almost dead on the ground. He was so thin at only 370 grams, very dehydrated and on his own for some time. Named after the elf character in Harry Potter, he is friendly, full of beans, and a little troublemaker. Before long, he jumps on us and sits on our shoulders.

Nelson
Nelson, who is 16 months old, was placed into care at six months old, weighing only 400 grams. He has a beautiful, gentle nature. As he slowly became familiar with the wild, Nelson spent the day playing in the rainforest beside the lodge.

Kimberly and Monty
Kimberly, now four years old, came into Margit’s care after two local boys heard a splash, went to investigate, and found the baby had fallen from a tree into a creek. They discovered her motionless at the bottom and rescued her.

After Margit rehabilitated and cared for her for a couple of years, she slowly spent more time in the rainforest and successfully reacquainted herself with the wild. She has a wild boyfriend called Gregory. She visits the lodge regularly and brings her 12-month-old baby, Monty.
Margit tells us it is a privilege to witness her as a first-time mum and to still have Kimberly’s trust. Monty will stay with Kimberly until he is about three years old.

Our Experience at the Lodge
Margit greets us, serves cold drinks and a cheese platter and we sit outside overlooking the rainforest. Towering palms, rainforest trees, ferns, orchards and climbing vines border the lodge. The only sounds we hear are rainforest birdsong.

As the sun sets, Red-legged pademelons venture out of the rainforest to graze on the lodge’s green lawn. Most of them are wild, and many were once in Margit’s care. They bring their babies back to the lodge. Pademelons prefer the rainforest cover and rarely venture far from it.

Kimberly and Monty visit the lodge during our stay and it is a sight to behold. They are aloof and suspicious, but by the end of the night, they warm to us. They have the run of the house, and their antics with Dobby are so funny. Little Dobby chases and jumps on them. He is a stirrer and just a ball of energy. Margit tells us it’s rare for an adult female to accept another baby kangaroo, but Kimberly takes it all in her stride.

Margit also cares for a baby Rock-wallaby, so tiny she’s just starting to grow fur. Another gorgeous and engaging personality is a baby Green ringtail possum, a species found only in Northern Australia.
We get to feed him his favourite leaves. He loves sitting on top of our head, just like he does on his mum in the wild.

Margit dishes up a lovely vegetarian dinner, including vegetables picked fresh from her garden. A mango sorbet dessert topped with chocolate sauce completes the meal. All the while, it’s like a documentary playing out as we watch the wildlife frolic in the lodge.

A Red-legged pademelon with a baby in her pouch hops into the lodge, checks everything out and goes back outside. She is another one of Margit’s many past charges. Outside, pademelons and possums gather under the moonlit rainforest, foraging for food.

Our snug bedroom overlooks the rainforest and from our patio we watch the pademelons and possums. We keep the window open to the cool rainforest air so we can listen to the distinctive mee-ow mee-ow call of the rainforest catbird. Due to the elevation, it can get cold here, especially in winter.

In the morning, over our tropical breakfast, a colourful display of Rainbow lorikeets and King parrots clown around and play outside the rainforest in front of the lodge. This tops off our stay at a wildlife paradise.

If you are looking for a rainforest stay with the chance to see rare wildlife, Lumholtz Lodge is the place to go. Margit is an interesting host with great stories to tell. She knows the area well and can recommend additional places to visit during your stay.

💡Tips for Spotting Tree Kangaroos in the Wild
- They rest high in the tree canopies during the day and can be challenging to spot. Their long black tail, which often hangs down, can be the best clue.
- Overcast, drizzly conditions are a good time to spot them, as they come to the edges of branches rather than hide under dense foliage.
- Late afternoon and early evening are good times to spot them. It’s the start of their active night period, when they leave their daytime spots.
- Try to get on higher terrain so you are looking horizontally into the trees rather than straight up.
- Wear neutral-coloured clothes.
- No bright colours or fluorescents.
- No sudden or quick movements.
- Don’t make too much noise.

Best Places to See Tree Kangaroos in the Atherton Tablelands
Crater Lakes National Park
A wildlife hotspot where you can spot Lumholtz’s tree kangaroos alongside rare possums, frogs and the brilliant blue Ulysses butterfly.
Curtain Fig National Park
Home to the iconic Curtain Fig Tree and rare Mabi forest—a critically endangered vine forest that tree kangaroos love. Green ringtail possums are also frequently seen here.
Malanda Falls Conservation Park
The small pocket of rainforest around Malanda Falls offers a great chance to spot tree kangaroos high in the canopy. Stop by the Malanda Falls Visitor Centre on-site for local wildlife maps and expert sighting tips.
Mt Quincan Crater Retreat
For a luxurious stay, these secluded treehouses, nestled in private rainforest, attract resident tree kangaroos and other native wildlife.
Nerada Tea Plantation
One of the most famous and reliable spots for tree kangaroo sightings! Enjoy a hot cup of locally grown tea while scanning the estate’s trees.
💡 Travel Tip: Opening hours can vary, so always check with Nerada Tea Plantation before visiting.
Peterson Creek Walking Track (Yungaburra)
A gentle 2.3 km riverside walk with a high chance of spotting tree kangaroos in the canopy and wild platypus in the creek below.

Useful Resources & Further Reading
- 🌿 Tree Kangaroo and Mammal Group — Discover local conservation efforts and how to help protect Australia’s tree kangaroos.
- 🏡 Lumholtz Lodge — Learn more about staying in the heart of tree kangaroo habitat.

🌳Update: We were saddened to learn that domestic dogs killed Geoffrey. Margit raised Geoffrey from age eight months and for the next 11 years, Lumholtz Lodge was his home base. While he spent most of his time free in the wild rainforest, he always returned to visit, maintaining an incredible bond with Margit. May he rest peacefully, surrounded by the gentle rustle and familiar sounds of the canopy he loved so dearly.

🌿Keep Exploring the Ancient Wet Tropics
Journey deeper into these ancient landscapes to discover hidden waterfalls, crystal-clear volcanic crater lakes and unique wildlife encounters—from spotting rare Lumholtz’s tree-kangaroos in the Atherton Tablelands canopy to looking for crocodile hatchlings on the Daintree River banks.
🐾Where to Next?
🗺️ 26 Beautiful Places to Visit in the Atherton Tablelands
🐊 The Daintree: 12 Unforgettable Experiences in Australia’s Ancient Rainforest
It looks like the tablelands have so much to offer. We saw our first platypus there but never learnt about these adorable tree kangaroos and possums. Cleary we need to return, a fantastic informative article with great images.
Spotting a platypus would have been awesome. The Atherton Tablelands does have so much to offer in the way of wildlife. We can see why it’s one of David Attenborough’s favourite places in the world! Apart from wildlife, there are also some gorgeous waterfalls and swimming holes. We hope you make it back one day Hayley.
Beautiful article and images. We have been in the area a few times now and saw a mother and baby around the Nerada but have never seen ant at Malanda Falls. Thanks for letting us know about the lodge as we have never heard of it before. We have friends coming from New Zealand who we will let know about this.
Thanks for your comment Dee & James. Next time we visit, Nerada is on our list! Lumholtz Lodge is one of the best places anyone with an interest in wildlife can stay.